June 2024 | Vol 12
A SEVEN-DAY DOLCE VITA by SAILING BOAT
words & photos Kristina Avdeeva
IG:@seasouldiary
SALERNO
Our ‘dolce vita’ along the Costiera Amalfitana began with a stunning view of Salerno, visible through the windows of the Dimora Copeta. With high ceilings decorated with original frescoes, Dimora Copeta, one of the apartments managed by Starhost, features cozy rooms, a kitchen with a terrace, antiques, and a terracotta floor restored by Fornace de Martino. Dimora Copeta's biggest advantage is its location in Old Town. Salerno Cathedral and the magnificent ancient building that housed the Scuola Medica Salernitana, the first and most important medical institution of the Middle Ages, are a short walk away. So, it would be impossible not to go to Hostaria il Brigante for lunch, Landi Pasticceria for dessert and amazing pizzas, and Pizzeria Criscemunno for dinner on its incredible terrace. And finally, we set off from here to Marina di Areci for our seven-day sailing trip.
AMALFI + ATRANI + RAVELLO
Atrani and Amalfi are 10 miles from Salerno. You can anchor your sail across the Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena and Spaggia di Atrani. Another alternative is to go beyond the promontory and immerse yourself in the hustle and bustle of Amalfi, popular with tourists. No big marina is located here, only small piers. It is less than an hour's walk from here to Atrani. After exploring both small towns, you have two scenarios to continue the day. The easy one is to go back, eat lemon ice cream and get lost in the picturesque maze of streets. The more interesting and difficult one - if the hike doesn't scare you - is to challenge yourself and climb up the Dragon River valley to Ravello! The reward for this accomplishment is the view from above.
Described as the "city of music", Ravello has plenty of lovely villas, including Villa Ruffolo. And, of course, the Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium, built by the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer in the shape of an eye looking out over the lush rocky hills with the shimmering sea and sky as a backdrop. The famous architect designed the building for his close friend Domenico De Masi, the president of the Ravello music festival. The auditorium possesses an emotional and powerful poetic energy that recalls some of the sketches by Le Corbusier, with whom Niemeyer worked in the 30s.
One of the things you must experience when you go to Amalfi is watching the bells of the Duomo di Amalfi tower against the backdrop of the sunset. And if you book Taverna Buonvicino in advance, you have the chance to hear a private piano solo from the owner.
ISCHIA
After soaking up the bustle of the city, we head to the majestic Castle of Aragon near the island of Ischia. It is one of the longest passes on the route. From here, you can immediately get an idea of the extent of the Bay of Naples.
Ischia offers hot springs, fertile soils, and luxurious beaches. Golden Age Hollywood was once attracted to this place. In more run-down corners, "The Talented Mr. Ripley" was filmed. Nowadays, Neapolitans visit here for a weekend of fun on the beach and tourists to seek youth and health in the hot springs.
As we were well enough hydrated on the sailboat, we went to the Giardini la Mortella Botanical Garden, located in the northwest of the island and created by the composer Sir William Walton and his wife. This masterpiece garden was lovingly created over the course of more than 30 years from pathways, vines, hydrangeas, and other magnificent rare plants. The abandoned villa of Italian director Luchino Visconti is also hidden in the garden.
CASTELLO ARAGONESE
After a deep sleep in the cozy marina of Calo Degli Aragonesi, we had coffee with fresh croissants and set off for Castello Aragonese. The castle was in existence before the Romans arrived. Just click on Wikipedia to learn about the turbulent history of events here. We are interested in modern history!
To anchor in the lagoon overlooking the ramparts, you need to buy a ticket from Regno di Neptuno. It is best to wander the labyrinths of the castle before lunch or at sunset. The numerous terraces in the castle offer breathtaking views of the island, neighboring Procida and Cape Miseno. For most people, the main attraction is the bar at the top of the castle. Yes, it's nice to spend time here looking at the sea.
PROCIDA
Ischia's closest neighbor, Procida, is the flagship of the Phlegrean Islands and looks like a real cinematic set design. We stopped in Porto della Corricella, the oldest coastal village on the sail. The small houses here lean against each other in a palette of pastel colors. They are often topped with balconies and arches of Arab origin. It is best known for hosting the movie "Il Postino" starring Massimo Troisi and Maria Grazia Cucinotta. Unlike nearby Ischia and Capri, Procida is not an island full of luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants, and exclusive clubs. Far from it, in fact.
It feels like time has stopped here. No sound, no car headlights, nothing superfluous. Fishermen pass by us to catch fish at night, following the call of their hearts and the laws of nature. The seagulls sing their famous timeless song.
SORRENTO
After swimming in the crystal clear waters of Procida Island, we headed towards the stunning city of Sorrento. We decided to spend the night in Marina Grande, not in the anchorage across the city, which resembled a cake. Once a fishing harbor, now impressively sized superyachts and sailboats spend the night at the pier. The unchanged old pastel-colored houses and the sleepy morning air give it a nostalgic charm. I would like to believe that Sorrento is not so different from the time when Sophia Loren and Vittorio de Sica filmed "Scandal in Sorrento (Pane, amore e...)" here in 1955.
Sorrento is on a hill. That's why it's necessary to spend some time climbing, to admire the views of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples. Our actual plan here is to explore the gastronomic life and go to Pompeii the next day.
First stop was Michelin-starred Il Buco. In the cellars of an old monastery, under a vaulted ceiling, it promises fine cuisine made from local produce and wines from the Campania region. The second stop was Ristorante Museo Caruso, which we discovered by chance as we took a wrong turn while escaping the bustle of the city, attracted by old gramophones and an abundance of photographs.
POSITANO
The busiest bay on the Amalfi Coast. Boats pass by on all sides. One of the most hectic places on the coast, but at the same time, very charming. The city's appearance raises the level of aesthetic pleasure.
A sea taxi takes us to the shore, and we don't have to make any effort to launch our motorboat.
Positano was once a fishing village, now the epicenter of glamor. The houses are densely packed on top of each other. Pastel colors - primrose, pink, terracotta, peach, and white - give the city a theatrical charm. The city's central landmark is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, located in the center of Piazza Flavio Gioia, with its beautiful majolica-covered dome. Near the throne, you can see a Byzantine altar from the 12th century depicting the Black Madonna and child.
At dawn, before the streets are filled with tourists, we decide to enjoy the city. On the terrace of the Don Giovanni restaurant, with a glass of white Per Eva Costa d'Amalfi, we took our seats to wait for the real show, the pink sunset. If you want to spend a night in this magical place, choose Le Sirenuse Hotel. Elegant, full of the spirit of Italy, this hotel belongs to the Sersale family. They also enjoy getting lost among the crowd of guests and having dinners in the intimate gardens of this wonderful place, overlooking the dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
In a nutshell, the Amalfi coast starts with seductive landscapes in the morning and ends with noisy fireworks in the evening. Only in Italy can you find such a high concentration of beauty, ancient artifacts, incredibly delicious food, and local wine.
